Homegirl London’s Food Review: Dandy Restaurant. There’s a foodie revolution going on in Newington Green, with Perilla opening last year and now Dandy going from pop up to permanent. Taking over from the Newington Table premises, Dandy is a restaurant, café and bar. Here you can enjoy modern cooking from Australians Dan Wilson and Andrew Leitch who were previously holed up in a shipping container located in London Fields. If you’re looking for best restaurants near Stoke Newington or places to eat in Newington Green, try Dandy Restaurant, where you’ll have a fine and dandy time!
“This restaurant delivers a tasty brunch menu and if you return for dinner you can share inventive global inspired small plates with your mates,” Homegirl London
Dandy Restaurant Menu
The menu is seasonal, with interesting ingredients and flavour combinations influenced from worldly travels. Homeboy and I popped in for brunch a couple of weeks ago and tucked into some rather tasty fried eggs on flat bread with smoked tomato and earthy chard. The other dish we tried was smashed new peas with ricotta, garlic and mint assembled on top of toasted sourdough. The menu also featured pork belly, mackerel, wood roasted beetroot and smaller offerings like crumpets or simple eggs on toast.
Fried Eggs on Flat Bread with Smoked Tomato and Chard
We wanted to explore this restaurant more so booked a table for five with our foodie friends on Wednesday evening last week. We decided to sample all five starters along with three rounds of delicious bread and butter. The tiny cherry tomatoes with vanilla was interesting and tasted a tad vinegary, I enjoyed it but this was my least favourite dish. I loved the peas with courgette ribbons and salsa verde, it was a gorgeous green helping of goodness.
Peas with Courgette Ribbons and Salsa Verde
The tempura mustard leaf was a big hit and looked amazing. Everyone raved about the green beans with chilli srirach and furikake (Japanese seasoning) which I thought was going to taste dry but it so wasn’t when you ate it.
Chilli Green Beans
I thought the fermented apricot with labne and lavender was pretty and the tart taste was welcomed after the hot chilli on the green beans.
Fermented Apricto with Labne and Lavender
The bigger plates are also designed for sharing so you’re better off going with a group of mates to this restaurant. We tried the veggie BBQ turnips which came on a layer of crème fraiche with chive oil. I enjoyed the turnips because it’s something I never bother to cook at home. They even looked attractive with a few nasturtium leaves used for decoration.
The Provencale artichokes barigoule with shallots and olives was wonderfully wholesome (featured image). I particularly enjoyed the smoked aubergine flatbread with smoked chilli and pickles with its vibrant green topping of chopped fresh herbs.
Aubergine Flatbread with Smoked Chilli and Pickles
Our party also tried the hispi cabbage with bonito dashi, nori and shrimp. The other dish was chopped BBQ lamb loin with Portobello and egg yolk. The menu also featured ox tongue with fresh horseradish and apple and dry aged Ayrshire sirloin with berries and confit shallot.
BBQ Lamb Loin with Portobello and Egg Yolk
We decided to try the two desserts for research purposes (yeah, right!). These were apricot with hazelnuts and a raspberry sorbet with dill cream and sorrel granite. Both were delightful, not too sweet and different enough to be memorable.
To give you an idea of price points, the small plates are £6-6.50, large plates are £8.50-15.50 and desserts are £126.96.36.199. Please note there are no menu alterations, so if you’re a fuss pot, you have been warned! The sample menu appears out of date on the website so we were in for a surprise food wise when we arrived. Don’t worry because there seems to be enough options to cater for vegans, vegetarians, fish and meat eaters. The wine list is limited but thoughtful, we tried a bottle of Marc Pesnot La Boheme which was very pleasant indeed.
Dandy Restaurant Interiors
Outside you’ll see a couple of large tables and benches in front of the restaurant. The expansive glass doors allow you to see inside the space. The interiors are light industrial with concrete floors and painted breeze block walls. There isn’t much in way of decoration – a blue wall, a few plants and a couple of pieces of art. The restaurant seats about fifty inside which includes a lengthy communal table. You’ll find the open kitchen towards the back along with the toilets.
Dandy Restaurant Information
To find out more about the restaurant go to the Dandy Website. The address is 20 Newington Green, London N16 9PU. Current opening times are Monday to Tuesday 8am until 5pm, Wednesday to Saturday 8am until 11pm and Sunday 9am until 5pm. At the moment, you can’t book online so you will have to call them or walk in and see if they have availability. It’s perfect for a cosy weekend brunch with your lover or dinner with a group of foodie friends. Enjoy!
Author: Homegirl London. Photographs: All by Homegirl London except the interiors photograph which is from the restaurant website. Thanks: Homeboy, Rich, Robin and Ness for dining with me.